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PRUNING ROSES-
from Mystery to Mastery

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ROSES

HOW ROSES GROW

SOMETIMES Spring comes early,

and those little bud-eyes on the sides of the canes are emerging

And even though the days are warm

there can still be snow and freezing nights

.. so start here:

tips before you begin....

Not all roses GROW the SAME

so are NOT PRUNED the SAME

- Some grow like a bush, build up a structure or climb and ramble.

- They want to be Prune how they grow..

Need a reminder? see HOW ROSES GROW...

- then, come back here...

Ready ? Gloves on and watch out for those

Rose PRICKLES

Let's go....

HOW TO PRUNE ROSES

THAT GROW LIKE A BUSH:

Roses that grow LIKE A BUSH send up new canes from the base each season and into the centre of the bush.

Follow a cane from the base to the tip: it doesn't fork or create a branch and blooms at the tip of a long stem... (If you have pruned your rose over a couple of seasons, you may see forking on some canes as a result but look at the bottom and it's easier to tell.

Those new canes are weaker their first season and can often flop outward .

Prune these First : the 4 D's: Dead, Diseased, Damaged, Dying

Then prune several of the outer canes a little shorter so the new growth will sprout and support those new canes by forming a sort of cage around the outside.

(don’t do this all in one season as it stresses the rose: take a couple)

Remove little twiggy bits. (those little stems that are too weak to support a bloom and can get tangled in the middle.

Prune the rose to the height and width you like or suits your garden - but only take about a third of either height or width..

These are generally the "modern garden roses" which are pretty disease resistant so not as much need to clear out the centre and then it will bloom all over.

New outside shoots will support young canes.

HOW TO PRUNE ROSES

THAT GROW

LIKE A STRUCTURE

THIS ROSE BUILDS A STRUCTURE has canes that begin growing from the base or "trunk" of the rose (both own-root and grafted roses). They start branching out like fingers as they grow, adding layers up the canes each season.

They grow and branch; grow and branch like most Floribundas.

-(multiple flowers on each branch or cane).

These roses can take 2, 3 or 4 years just to build the structure so let it grow 4 or 5 feet high before you do any major pruning. If you prune away that bottom layer, it can all collapse, and can take another 2 to 3 seasons to rebuild.

So think before you prune this rose.

This rose needs time to build its structure with shorter canes and blooms all over.

HOW TO PRUNE A STRUCTURE :

Start with the 4 D’s and only a third off the top if needed.

Prune any canes that cross or rub against one another and cut those back to a healthy bud-eye (or a 5 leaflet if it has leaves). 

Because of the way it builds a structure, these canes tend to be self-supporting. So no real need to create an outer cage as in the bush rose.

Give it some shape by removing any pieces that stick out and grab your sweater or small children... or those that take your eye away from a pleasant shape.

Groom all season... shape and deadhead. Less is more.

HOW TO PRUNE CLIMBING ROSES

Climbers have two types of canes:

main canes and

lateral (horizontal) canes.

The long main canes that grow from its base need to reach their height first (sometimes the whole first season) -maybe even 10 to 20 feet . Then the side or lateral canes will sprout.

When you train those long main canes as horizontal as possible, they will sprout side shoots called laterals where the blooms will be.

HOW TO PRUNE A CLIMBING ROSE:

Climbing roses are pruned differently but always start with the 4 D’s before you do anything else.

Don't prune out those main (vertical) canes because they support the climber - unless they are dead and if so, you will need to retrain a strong lateral to make a new vertical main cane.

If you prune the main canes to the base, it takes too much energy for the rose to start over from the ground up, often delaying blooms for a few seasons..

However, if for some reason, (damaged or broken in storm etc, try not to cut a main cane back more than 1/3 and give it time to recover from the stress.

Remove canes that cross and rub against another, back to a healthy bud.

Pruning cuts should always go back to strong and healthy canes.

Train the lateral canes to grow as close to a 45 degree angle as possible and tie them gently to a support or trellis.

Remember, blooms grow from the laterals (or horizontals).

Groom all season - deadhead about 6 to 12 inches above the lateral cane.